By Arnold Wayne Jones

The cliche of queer culture — especially gay male culture — almost always involves huge crowds, half-dressed boys shaking their booties, elbow-to-elbow parade routes (or dance floors) and colorful drink specials. And sure, we all like that sometimes. But many LGBTQ folks have found a soul-satisfying way to camp it up… literally.

You may think of camping as a pastime, perhaps go so far as calling it a hobby, but for a segment of the gay population, it approaches the level of genuine lifestyle. In Texas, it’s popular enough that gay-specific campgrounds like Grizzly Pines outside of Houston and Circle J Ranch in East Texas attract loyal followings. And none is larger, more storied, or more family- and pet-friendly than Rainbow Ranch Campground in Central Texas.

Conveniently located about equidistant from Dallas, Austin and Houston, Rainbow Ranch has been on the Lone Star State’s gay landscape for nearly a quarter of a century. Its 300 acres abut the calm, northwest finger of Lake Limestone, on the outskirts of Groesbeck, Texas, a sleepy burg of fewer than 5,000 where the biggest building in town is probably the high school and country music plays on plenty of radio stations. It might not seem the kind of setting that would welcome scores of gay men and women visiting... and when it first opened, that was true. In the late 1990s, the town even held a meeting about whether to “allow” a gay campground to open. But when local building supplies companies saw how much lumber was being purchased, restaurants noted an uptick in business and grocery stores reported campers averaging $50 a week in sales… well, gay or not, Rainbow Ranch became an indispensible part of the economic vibrancy of the community.

Vibrant also describes the ad hoc community that manifests at the ranch most weekends. While newcomers can rent a few cabins ($65–$100/night), a 2,800-square foot house that sleeps 14 ($200/night) or individual sites for trailers and just tents (as little as $25/night), many of the diehard fans of Rainbow Ranch have set up nearly-permanent RV homes with a monthly rental, complete with added amenities like decks, fire pits and sheds for storing their golf carts. (I asked one devoted weekender when the last time he moved his RV, he replied, “It went from the dealership to right here more than two years ago.” Many have remained stationary much longer.) As a result, the slips where the RV reside create quaint neighborhoods nestled in the folds of nature; there are about 80 at any given time, with room for about 200 total.

And if your conception of an RV is a metal can hitched to a pickup truck, well, that’s where the lifestyle part comes in. Some of these set-ups are just shy of palatial: Elaborate elevated patios, widescreen TV, fully-furnished outdoor sitting areas where afternoon cocktails are more common than mosquitoes; many weekenders love to cook, or barbecue, or simply entertain. (There are noise rules to keep things quiet after midnight; and because it’s family-friendly, this is not a clothing-optional resort.)

The owners have turned virtually every other weekend into an “event” weekend, whether Women Fest, Half-Price Rentals, Memorial Day or New Year’s Eve bashes, which attract many newcomers… us included. (We drove the easy two hours from Dallas for the wine-and-painting party, where attendees are encouraged to quaff and paint on canvas, guided by a professional art teacher.) We were immediately struck by how “camp” takes on a whole new meaning with the gays when you’re out in nature… and how much the culture embraces newcomers.

First-timers staying in cabins are well-advised to prepare. While this isn’t exactly “roughing it” like Gilligan and company, don’t expect four-star amenities: Bring your own bed linens, pillows, towels and toiletries, as well as food, beverages and dining utensils, including cups. (Cabins have hot plates, microwaves and outdoor grills, but there’s no room service or on-site restaurants!) You may want to bring firewood (though you can buy it there), but don’t forget charcoal briquettes, lighter fluid, matches, an ice chest and aluminum foil or be prepared for a 20-minute drive into town to pick up supplies.

The pace is as calm and relaxing as you want it to be… but can also be raucous fun. Miles of walkable hiking trails snake through the wooded area, though you can usually hitch a ride on one of the regulars’ golf carts for gentle off-roading excursions. Kick a ball around, hang out by the outdoor pool (weather permitting) or canoe along the lake. Or stop by Barbie and Ken’s, a permanent RV near the entrance that is as close as the ranch comes to an official party headquarters. Barbie serves as entertainment director, often serving as DJ; there’s a bar and karaoke room as well.

But the real draw if the friendliness of the folks who live their gay culture served with an ample dose of natural beauty — an affordable and rejuvenating way to be out and proud without having to worry about cover charges, valet parking or waiting lists. Not every gay adventure requires disco ball.

Rainbow Ranch near Groesbeck, Texas. Open year round. RainbowRanch.net.

--

Arnold Wayne Jones

Taste the Rainbow with an Outdoor Adventure